The Essential
Located on the Perancak estuary, the Pura Gede Ancak marks the spot where Danghyang Nirartha first set foot on the island one day in 1546. As the afternoon draws to a close the village rouses itself to see off the fishermen. Go and observe these superb multicoloured boats and their crews as they prepare to spend the night at sea. They set sail, guided solely by their transistor radios. In the morning (5am-9am) the fish is sold on the beach.