Cayo Coco is the most popular spot in this archipelago of 400 islands called the "king's gardens" (jardines del rey). The royal epithet is accurate; everything needed for the dream holiday is here. Long sandy beaches, palm trees lapped by emerald and turquoise seas, coral reefs teeming with fish. Drawn here by the mangroves, the bird life (pelicans, ibis, flamingos) completes the picture. The paradox is that whilst it attracts visitors from around the world, Cubans are not allowed to stay here.