On the seaside, the lovely bay of Tangier and the Strait of Gibraltar herald Europe. On the land side, is a colourful city looking longingly toward the future from behind the medina's white walls. Tangier is impregnated with that ambivalence. Between recent constructions - the gigantic Tanger Med Port project and blaring car horns - yesterday's intellectuals would be hard pressed to find the atmosphere of old. Some of the old buildings, however, still exude an air of Matisse and Bowles, and visitors can enjoy the city's charms.