A surprising name for such a verdant island! Although this northernmost island in the archipelago owes its name to an absence of waterholes, it is covered with guano, a natural fertilizer which has slowly allowed a unique ecosystem to develop. Breathe in the intoxicating scent of Wright's gardenias, which only grow here, and stroll among scads of seabirds, including the world's largest colony of noddies and sooty terns.
Mon, Wed and Sun 10am-3pm, Thu by prior arrangement - Information at Island Conservation Society - access SCR500 (€30), visitors aged under 14 SCR250 (€15), children under 5 free admittance (guided tours included). Contact a travel agency (p. 137) or a boat company (p. 148)