America's mission in 1945 was to destroy Osaka. Mission accomplished: Osaka was devastated. It was then rebuilt by the Japanese over the course of the decades. With its skyscrapers and underground network, the new urbanism borders on anarchic but the city is more Japanese and more exhilarating than ever. A spirit of carpe diem and money seems to be the guiding precept of Osaka, which doesn't look like much, but whose hedonism is promising. A port since its origins, cosmopolitan Osaka, Japan's second largest city, offers a fascinating insight into the latest fashions and trends.