Sprawling, disproportionate, over-populated, you won't lack adjectives to describe the world's biggest metropolis. Yet, they fail to capture the essence of Tokyo, which is not an abstract entity but rather an individual identity that needs redefining each time you "stroll" round one of its numerous different hubs. Tokyo vibrates in tune with the sheer human energy of its inhabitants in their bid to keep the capital of "the archipelago of natural risks" alive and kicking.
The world’s largest fish market is open to visitors at night, in the electric mayhem of the red tuna auction. This is the place to take the pulse of a country that has turned raw fish into a highly refined culinary art.