Si Ma Cai
The Essential
In a sumptuous setting of terraced rice fields dotted with dirt houses, against a backdrop of the mountain range that marks the border with China, there lies Si Ma Cai. The small town organises a fair each Sunday. In Hmong, Si Ma Cai means "horse market", but over the years, scooters have replaced the original steads and those who come here to buy a horse are few and far between. Hmong, Daos and Phu Las still come here to stock up on vegetables, alcohol and various items.