The former capital of the duchy of Bar, Bar-le-Duc has retained many reminders of its Renaissance splendour. The upper town, whose honey-coloured facades, which miraculously escaped the Revolution, is almost Mediterranean in flavour. Make sure you sample its legendary redcurrant jam (the redcurrants are de-pipped with a goose feather!), said to be a favourite of Alfred Hitchcock. Also look out for Ligier Richier's "Transi", a striking masterpiece of Renaissance sculpture. A must as you tour Lorraine.