Simple, contemporary fine dining in Düsseldorf
High-end restaurants in Düsseldorf are experiencing something of an age revolution as numerous highly talented and often young chefs with their own signature styles strive for new culinary heights, demonstrating that cool, low-key surroundings and high-quality, creative cuisine are far from mutually exclusive.
A few of the “trend-setting newcomers” from the 2017 MICHELIN Guide Germany that are mixing skill, quality and innovative ideas are highlighted below.
The room is dimly lit and the chefs work behind a U-shaped counter where diners sit on comfortable bar stools with a view of the kitchen. Bastian Falkenroth offers a menu that changes every seven weeks, working with choice ingredients with individuality and creative flair to produce dishes such as butternut squash, lichen and cranberries and lightly smoked eel, elderberries and broad beans. The pared-down, finely balanced cuisine concentrates on the essentials, bringing to the plate food that is full of expression and depth, rich in contrast but never fussy. An undoubtedly talented chef with an appealing culinary style.
The restaurant exudes French charm from the friendly bistro atmosphere with its musical backdrop of chansons françaises to the blackboards displaying daily specials and the pleasant, attentive service. In these welcoming surroundings Dany Cerf offers authentic and classic French cuisine grounded in good, fresh produce with no unnecessary flourishes. Eschewing gimmickry, this excellent young chef invests in first-class produce and charges fair prices. For a subtle treat rich in flavour try the codfish in tomato liquor with olives, risoni, octopus and chorizo or the pigeon breast with sweetheart cabbage, hazelnuts and creamy polenta.
Volker Drkosch, no stranger to top-flight German gastronomy, runs a relaxed and welcoming urban gastro-bar that is vibrant, lively and just a little cramped. Too noisy and down-to-earth for a Michelin star, you might think? Not at all, for the excellent food – informal, no-nonsense and modern – is excellent: fresh and unfussy but intense, powerful and expertly judged. Above all, it offers excellent value for money. To test the flavour and the quality of the ingredients try the tartare of Argentinian giant red prawns with avocado, golden millet and lemon sorbet or the secreto of Glehner Landschwein pork with octopus, borlotti beans and artichokes. Eat at the counter and you can even watch the cooks at work in the kitchen.
As you can see, there’s no shortage of modern, low-key award-winning restaurants in Düsseldorf. Who said fine dining in relaxed surroundings couldn’t work!
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