Seen from above, the hamlet is hardly impressive. A few streets, a church perched on the hill, an unstable coast where no port can be built, a football ground that takes up half of the surface area of the village. Beneath its lovely green cliff, the tiny community of Vík í Mýrdal, often battered by rain, is the last equipped village before Höfn, 280km away. Everyone stops here to use the services, but mainly to see its black coastline.