The Essential
Established in 1675, this is the second largest settlement on the isthmus and can be a sombre spot. In winter, the sight on entering the village of fishing nets hanging in the fog is eerie. With spring's arrival, the ice on the lagoon and the nets disappear; uniform grey is replaced by the red of its houses, green of the woodlands, ochre of the brickwork and blue of the lagoon. Don't miss the fishermen's houses (unchanged for a century) and the witches' hill, adorned with contemporary sculpture.