The Essential
Lithuanian historians rejoice at the name of Kernave: "cradle of the Lithuanian state", "10 000 years of history", "Lithuania's Pompeii", "Europe's last pagan city"... all of which seems surprising on arrival in this small village of 250 inhabitants. But this hilly site by the River Neris is a key place in the history of the human colonisation of the Baltic countries, and may yet become more important; only 2% of its 195ha (a Unesco World Heritage site since 2004) has so far been excavated.