After the immense silence of the surrounding steppes, Ankara's bustling activity comes as something of a shock. Declared the capital of the country in 1923, this metropolis is very much the grand design of Atatürk. Ankarites are proud of their city, a symbol of Turkey's progress, its green spaces and its wide and straight tree-lined boulevards. However, Ankara did not develop out of nothing, as it has expanded around the remains of a Seljuk city, the ramparts of which conceal a veritable Anatolian village with a colourful and welcoming atmosphere. Modern Ankara is not without its memories from the past.