The stars are aligned in San Francisco this week, as Michael Tusk (Quince) shares his kitchen with David Barzelay (Lazy Bear), Stuart Brioza (State Bird Provisions/The Progress), David Kinch (Manresa), Matthew Kirkley (Coi), and Mourad Lahlou (Mourad). Below, Tusk, Kinch, and Lahlou dish on breakfast, shopping for ingredients, and how they spend their precious free time.
On 24 hours in San Francisco/the Bay Area:
MT: I’d start my day with coffee and pastries at Jane on Larkin Street. For lunch I have a few options: head over to Zuni Cafe or Swan Oyster Depot for oysters, or grab a loaf of focaccia at Liguria Bakery (1700 Stockton St. near Filbert St.), or possibly have the combo sandwich at Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store in North Beach. If it’s cocktail hour, I’m thinking of a rum drink at the Smugglers Cove — there are over a dozen to choose from. For dinner, I like to go to Sushi Ran in Sausalito, or head to Chinatown for the great food at Mister Jiu’s. If it’s a special occasion, we might head to Benu or Saison.
DK: In San Francisco, I go to Kin Khao and get drinks at Bar Agricole. For fine dining in San Francisco, I enjoy Corey Lee’s cooking at Benu. Closer to home, I head to The Bywater for brunch or grab a seat on the patio for lunch.
ML: Start with coffee at Sightglass and then onto pastries at Arsicault. Lunch at Mau and some tacos at El Gallo Giro. Afternoon treats: ice cream at Bi-Rite Creamery is a must (first choice is toasted coconut, second choice is peanut butter brittle). Another cup of coffee at Four Barrel and some raspberry dusted macaroons at Neighbor Bakehouse. For dinner: Cook for friends at home, but if I were going out, I’d go to Ju-Ni on a warm night or La Ciccia on a chilly night.
On enjoying free time in San Francisco/the Bay Area:
MT: Depending on the day or my mood I’ll visit the Fraenkel Gallery to see their photography show. I like to go out on the water off of Sausalito and kayak with my fabulous wife Lindsay and then take out our Greater Swiss Mountain Dogs to Chrissy Field. I’m also a Giants fan, so I might go to see a baseball game at the ballpark. At night, music at the Great American Music Hall, Bimbo’s or Bottom of the Hill is always on my list.
DK: If I have free time, I take advantage of the weather, which means I’m generally in the water—swimming, surfing, or paddling.
ML: What free time? Napping, basketball, hiking (Marin and the headlands, Tamalpais Valley, Muir Woods, Muir Beach, and Rodeo Beach) or visiting friends’ restaurants.
On shopping for ingredients in San Francisco/the Bay Area:
MT: The Berkeley or Ferry Building farmers’ markets are two I frequent quite a bit, but most
likely, I’ll drive to Fresh Run Farm in Bolinas, West Marin, to pick items myself from the
field or our greenhouse.
DK: I live in Santa Cruz and we have several farmers markets. I also go to the markets in Los Gatos and neighboring Saratoga. They keep me in touch with seasonality.
ML: Farmer’s markets, The Mission, Japantown, Clement Street.
On where to buy sourdough bread (invented in San Francisco):
MT: In our kitchen, from our baker Estevan who is extremely talented and loves crafting sourdough loaves. Also Jane in the Tenderloin and Pacific Heights makes exceptional bread.
DK: That’s easy—Manresa Bread.
ML: The Mill.
On after-hours hot spots where civilians can rub elbows with chefs:
MT: After hours, I don’t go out much anymore, but if I did, I did would stop by The Interval at Fort Mason.
DK: I usually don’t head out after hours but I’m a big fan of the Black Watch in Los Gatos (141 N. Santa Cruz Ave) or the Poet & Patriot in Santa Cruz (320 Cedar St., Ste. E.).
ML: Nopa, of course.
On dinner with one San Franciscan, living or dead:
MT: As a Marin County resident I would have to invite [musician] Jerry Garcia over for dinner,
drinks and, of course, music.
DK: While he’s not from here, he spent a lot of time in the Bay Area—Samuel Clemens, better known as [author] Mark Twain. I’d likely cook dinner and we’d dine on the porch over long conversation.
ML: [Civil rights activist] Harvey Milk at Zuni Café.
MT: Real simple: drip coffee with whole milk and very little sugar.
DK: I do a pour over at home in the morning and have an espresso or Americano in the afternoon.
ML: Coffee made with a Chemex with a little cream made with a Chemex.
MT: I am big into toast with some jam or with a poached egg, and I‘m also a big fan of an all-butter croissant or pain au chocolat.
DK: Fruit, yogurt and honey, coffee